Open a component for the details and matching equipment.
Fridge & temperature control Keeps the beer cold
The compressor removes heat; the thermostat decides when it runs. A conversion starts with a working appliance and a floor that can support the keg. An external controller can switch a compatible appliance on and off using its own probe, but cannot repair a failed cooling system.
Control the beer temperature, not just the dial
A numbered fridge knob is a relative setting, not a thermometer. Give a newly loaded keg time to cool throughout, then check the actual beer temperature. Opening the door warms the air much faster than it warms a full keg.
An external controller reads a probe and switches power to the fridge. Its cooling differential allows a small temperature rise before restarting; its compressor delay enforces a minimum wait between starts. Use the appliance and controller instructions to choose those settings and confirm the controller can handle the electrical load. A very tight setting can cause excessive cycling.
Controller example: INKBIRD’s explanation of cooling differential and compressor delay.
Compare refrigerator temperature controllers →
Choose a fridge →Keg Stores the beer under pressure
A commercial keg has a valve and internal spear. Homebrew ball-lock kegs use separate gas and liquid posts. Choose the beer and keg size first, then check physical fit with the connections attached.
Volume is only part of the fit
A U.S. half barrel holds 15.5 gallons; a sixth barrel holds about 5.16 gallons. A typical homebrew Cornelius keg holds 5 gallons. Similar capacity does not mean identical height or diameter: handles, rubber bases and fittings all take space.
The liquid tube reaches near the bottom so gas above the beer can push almost all of it out. Gas and liquid connections are separate on a Cornelius keg; a commercial spear combines them in one valve assembly. Leave room above it for the coupler and a gentle hose bend, and verify that the floor can carry a full keg. Never remove a spear or lid while the keg is pressurized.
Explore refillable kegs →CO₂ cylinder Supplies the gas
For an ordinary CO₂ draft setup, food/beverage-suitable CO₂ helps maintain carbonation and provides the pressure to move beer. Secure the cylinder upright. Plan where you will refill it and whether it fits beside the keg.
Plan refills before buying a bottle
A compact cylinder can sit inside the fridge if it fits securely beside the keg. An external cylinder frees up keg space but needs a verified safe route for the gas hose. Keep either arrangement upright and secured, with the valve accessible.
A CO₂ cylinder contains liquid and gas. The high-pressure gauge changes with temperature and is a poor “fuel gauge” while liquid remains. Weighing the cylinder and subtracting its stamped tare weight gives a more useful estimate of the contents; account for any attached regulator or accessories in that weight. A cold bottle can show lower pressure without being nearly empty.
Ask a beverage-gas supplier, homebrew shop or suitable cylinder service whether they refill your own bottle or exchange it. If you want to keep a new cylinder, arrange a refill rather than assuming you will get the same bottle back. A leak can empty even a large bottle, so check connections after assembly.
CO₂ bottles →Regulator & gas hose Deliver controlled pressure
The regulator reduces cylinder pressure to the serving pressure. Gas-rated hose carries it to the keg. Two gauges usually show cylinder and delivery pressure; they do not mean two separately adjustable outlets.
Two gauges are not two regulators
The adjustment knob controls a regulator body. A gauge only reports pressure. Count independently adjustable pressure controls when shopping for a two-beer setup. A single-gauge model can still regulate one pressure; it simply omits the cylinder-pressure gauge.
On a narrow screen, scroll the comparison sideways to see all three columns.
| Arrangement | What it does | Useful for |
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| Single regulator, two gauges | One gauge reads cylinder pressure; the other reads the single delivery pressure. | One beer, or several beers needing the same pressure. |
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| One regulator + manifold | Splits that one pressure into several gas hoses. Outlet valves isolate kegs; they do not set separate pressures. | A simple multi-keg setup with matching pressure needs. |
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| Dual primary regulator | Two regulating bodies share one cylinder connection, each with its own adjustable delivery pressure. | Two beers with different carbonation targets. |
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| Primary + secondary regulators | The tank regulator feeds downstream regulators, which reduce pressure separately for each branch. | A wall-mounted bank or a system with room to expand. |
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Secondary regulators cannot raise pressure above their supply and must not connect directly to cylinder pressure. Follow their specified inlet limits and required pressure margin.
Use gas-rated hose and matched connections. Check valves help stop beer backing into gas equipment; verify which outlets include them.
Examples: Micro Matic’s dual primary and secondary regulator panel.
Regulators & gas fittings →Coupler or disconnects Connect gas in and beer out
A coupler opens a compatible commercial keg valve and provides two separate paths. Most U.S. commercial kegs use D; imports may differ. Ball-lock homebrew kegs use a pair of disconnects instead.
Match the valve before ordering
D-system, or American Sankey, is the common starting point for U.S. commercial beer. S-system, often called European Sankey, looks similar but is not interchangeable. Other imported beers use A, G, U or M systems. Ask the seller to confirm the valve on the actual keg; the beer’s country alone is not enough.
On ball-lock kegs, the gas and liquid posts use different disconnects. Identify the marked gas post and the correct disconnect rather than forcing a tight connection. Pin-lock kegs require their own connectors. The fitting on the hose side is another choice: a barb, a threaded flare or a compatible push-fit adapter must match the rest of your system.
Find the right keg connection →Beer line, fittings & clamps Carry beer and manage flow
Start with beverage-grade 3/16″ ID vinyl for a typical home build. Its length adds flow resistance. Match barbs to hose ID and clamps to the hose over the installed fitting. Keep the line cold and loosely coiled without kinks.
Inside diameter controls flow; outside diameter controls fit
The usual starting choice for a short home draft system is 3/16-inch ID beverage vinyl. Wider hose has less resistance per foot and is not a simple upgrade. Metric barrier tubing is another valid system, but its dimensions and resistance differ; use the correct calculator setting and fittings for that tubing.
A barb grips the inside of flexible hose. A clamp compresses the hose around it, so clamp selection depends on the outside diameter after installation. A correctly sized Oetiker-style stepless ear clamp gives even compression with a compact profile. It is crimped once and replaced when removed. Without crimp tools, use a properly sized smooth-band hose clamp suitable for soft tubing; a coarse perforated automotive clamp can bite into it.
Push-fit systems grip the tubing’s outside surface and use a seal inside the fitting. They require the specified tubing OD, a clean square cut and full insertion; they do not use an ear clamp on that connection. Keep all lines cold, with broad coils and loose ties that cannot pinch the hose.
Clamp design: Oetiker’s StepLess technology.
Match hose and fittings →Shank, tower & faucet Bring the pour outside
A shank passes through a door, collar or panel and holds the faucet. A tower raises the faucet above a countertop and houses the line. The faucet opens and closes the beer path. A warm tower can cause a foamy first pour.
Choose the mount and the faucet separately
A door-mounted shank must reach through the complete wall with room for its securing hardware and beer connection. Check usable mounting length, not just the product’s overall length. A tower uses short shanks inside its column; changing to more taps requires enough room for the extra hoses and a compatible mounting pattern.
A forward-sealing faucet closes near its outlet, helping keep its internal mechanism from drying out between uses. A conventional rear-sealing faucet can become sticky when beer residue dries inside. Either design still needs cleaning. Stainless beer-contact surfaces are a useful choice for durability and cleaning.
A flow-control faucet adds an adjustable restriction for fine tuning. It cannot cool a warm beer line or correct the keg’s carbonation. Insulate and cool the tower’s beer path, then balance the system. Open a normal faucet fully for pouring instead of throttling it halfway.
Taps and mounting choices →Drip tray & cleaning kit Keep it pleasant to use
The tray catches drips. A suitable cleaning kit moves cleaning solution through the beer path; faucets also need attention. Follow the equipment and chemical instructions, including rinse requirements. A new system needs cleaning too.
Cleaning is part of owning a draft system
Beer residue builds up in tubing, faucets and couplers, even when the outside looks clean. Micro Matic recommends home-system cleaning at keg changes or at least every two weeks. Use a cleaner intended for beer lines, with its stated dilution, contact time and rinse procedure. Sanitizer does not remove a dirty buildup by itself.
Choose a kit that connects to your actual faucet, coupler or disconnect. Disconnect the beer and follow the kit’s procedure before introducing solution. Clean removable faucet parts and inspect seals as instructed; never mix cleaning chemicals. Empty and wash the drip tray regularly—an undrained tray is a catch basin, not a sink.
Cleaning schedule: Micro Matic’s residential guidance.
Cleaning equipment → 
KEG